The great rocks and their absolute verticality have always attracted the strongest climbers. During the 60’s, a group of famous Italian alpinists climbed the slabs to test new rock climbing techniques but the best promoter of this place were the Condors. A group of teens guided by Don Agostino Butturini a priest who in 1975 had the amazing idea of using rock climbing as an educational sport.
But at the end was Marco Ballerini a famous climber on 1981 who understood the potentiality of this area and demonstrated how to experience the complexity of the cliffs, creating new, difficult and always stunning itineraries bringing finally climbing lovers in Lecco.
La Casa Delle Guide was born in 1981 with the cooperation of some local mountaineers. In 1996, the Italian government recognized it as a school of alpinism. Fabio Lenti, the director, was one of the first kids who climbed the cliffs during the 70’s with the Condor team.
credit picture: La Casa Delle Guide
Situated next to Introbio’s crag La Casa Delle Guide is the best meeting point for all the people who want to enjoy the mountains while having holidays in Lecco. The guides take care of the safety on the trails while equipping and testing the cliffs around Lecco province. It’s an amazing service that allows people to know the conditions of climbing routes and “vie ferrate” as well as giving information to excursionists about the weather in real time. The area is composed of several long and short cliffs to suit any climbing preference. The main structure is the Rock of Introbio, a compacted vertical wall with amazing technical movements and consistency. Some of the itineraries are harsh tests of the perfection of your balance on slabs. They’re sometimes hard to accomplish, but on the right side, there are some overhangs.
Behind the rock of Introbio, there is another cliff called Pala Condor structured in different levels and on its right side is the Introbio Wall with short and fun rises. Above the Condor Slab, there are the Pilastrini, a feast of rock’s holes and edges. A few meters from La Casa Delle Guide there is the Gran Placca a former quarry equipped with climbing holds.
Starting with a 2a level and ending with a 7a level, La Casa Delle Guide can host any kind of climber from beginners to experts and it’s possible to climb anytime, in any season.
credit pictures: La Casa Delle Guide
The thing that I love the most about this place is the fact that if you have your own gear, rock climbing is free. Anyone can go to La Casa Delle Guide of Introbio and play with the rocks. They will only charge you if you need equipment or a guide.
One of my best friends Alessandro Meoli is an expert climber from Lecco and he brought me to rock climb for the first time in my life. He had all the necessary tools and he taught me everything about ropes, knots and how to use them. My rock climbing experience started at the most famous rock of the complex, the Pala Condor the first try was a 2a level. Alessandro climbed first and attached the rope to the multi-pitch. While he was climbing I was holding the Grigri for him which is an assisted braking belay device, designed to help secure rock-climbers. Then we swapped positions and I started her rise. By the end of the day, I had reached a 5a level.
Climbing those slabs made me face my fears, my doubts. Exploring the impossible and trusting my hands and my feet. I found my balance, I pushed myself and past my limits. While I was holding the Grigri for Alessandro I felt like his life was in my hands. It was the best way to consolidate a long life friendship. I can’t wait to do it again
La casa delle guide is approximately a 10-minute drive from ALVA and 5 minutes from THE HOUSE OF WITCHES both featured in recent Outsider posts. Combining the three definitely makes for a thoroughly rewarding day trip.
Don't miss Marta's video:
ROCK-CLIMBING FOR THE FIRST TIME IN LECCO - LAKE COMO, ITALY
Written by: Marta Sailis
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